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Saturday, December 21, 2024

Jonesing for a Fresh Start

BY SHELBY TUTTLE

If you’re a foodie in Phoenix, you’re likely no stranger to two-time James Beard- nominated Chef Stephen Jones and his widely acclaimed restaurant, The Larder + The Delta. Jones opened the first iteration of his restaurant inside DeSoto Central Market in 2015 before moving to a free-standing brick-and-mortar location inside Portland on the Park in 2018.

After five years, in October 2023, Jones announced to much dismay that he would be closing the space due to leasing issues, with no concrete plans or timeline to reopen. Just a few months later, Jones dropped another culinary industry bomb, announcing that he would be moving into the quaint old house on Osborn that houses Binkley’s Restaurant — a fine- dining staple of the Valley’s food scene.

Together, Jones and Chef Kevin Binkley confirmed the announcement of The Larder & The Delta’s reopening through various media outlets, noting that Binkley and his wife, Amy, would be stepping back from the hustle and bustle of the industry to enjoy life at a slower pace but would stay connected to the space as Jones’ business partners.

In September, Jones and team opened the doors to the all-new The Larder & The Delta. Much media emphasis has been placed on the new ampersand in the name (Jones notes the intentional change as more fitting for the fine dining space), while a more appropriate amount has been placed on Jones’ new menu. The stylistically “Modern Southern” chef has followed in Binkley’s footsteps, offering a multi-course tasting menu — the number typically hovers between 12-13 — with one seating nightly from Wednesday to Saturday (beginning in mid- November, the restaurant will offer two seatings on Fridays and Saturdays).

Jones has always found innovative and unique ways to create traditionally Southern dishes with Sonoran ingredients, and while the new menu may be more elevated, he has carried forward a commitment to local sourcing while paying close attention to various other sustainability initiatives.

“Sustainability is important to me. It’s not just about reducing our carbon footprint — it’s about supporting the local community, the local economy, and helping create local jobs for our community. It’s a much bigger lift than just buying local produce from the farmers market.”

But Jones does that, as well, and notes that true sustainability goes beyond the initial purchase, prioritizing relationships with local farmers and ensuring year-round support.

“It’s about supporting that farmer year round, so they can add more work force to their farms,” he says.

Jonesing for a Fresh Start
Photos by Katie Levine Photography

Responsible sourcing practices at The Larder & The Delta include purchasing goods from verifiable sources with traceable practices, as well as partnering with fisheries that prioritize sustainable fishing methods, like catch limits and seasonal harvesting.

The chef has also taken up gardening at the new location, making use of the property’s raised beds and citrus trees, formerly created by and tended to by Amy Binkley. Additionally, Jones has partnered with R.City to handle the restaurant’s on-site composting, most of which comes from guest plates, in addition to a small portion of unusable scraps created during food prep.

While his current efforts are mindful when it comes to sustainable practices, Jones is already looking to the future and says that plans are in the works to further improve upon the amount of sustainable ingredients he can include on the multi-course menu. Buzz around the new location and public support of the new concept has been positive, proving that sustainability is not just achievable, it’s a recipe for success. For more information or to make reservations, visit www.thelarderthedelta.com.

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