BY SHELBY TUTTLE
Within moments of meeting Mavis-Jay Sanders, it was clear that hospitality
is in her DNA. On a sunny day in June at a casual cocktail joint in Chicago’s Andersonville neighborhood, she greeted my friend and me with a wide smile and warm hug. There to celebrate Mavis-Jay’s second “Queers at Beards” event — the only celebration dedicated to James Beard Foundation queer nominees during James Beard weekend — I was my chef friend’s plus one, happily tagging along to revel in some of the best food and drink a girl could dream of.
By the time we got there, the party was in full swing and Mavis-Jay happily flitted from group to group as a brilliant hostess, expertly welcoming new visitors in one breath and wishing others a heartfelt goodbye in the next. Her energy is all at once gentle and effervescent, poised and self-assured — her very presence commands your
attention. What possibly struck me most about my new acquaintance is that I could actually feel the pure goodness of her soul.
A Culinary Institute of America-trained chef, Sanders has held coveted positions at two-MICHELIN star (and one MICHELIN Green Star) -rated Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Danny Meyer’s now-shuttered Untitled at the Whitney. While fine dining was once her focus, a number of negative experiences slowly discolored her view of the industry.
“I had issues with getting my foot in the door,” she says. In one instance, Sanders remembers auditioning for a simple line cook position, in which she had to complete two one-day trials, followed by another full week of trials — all unpaid — to prove that she could “handle the job.” Meanwhile, her white hetero male counterparts with comparable experience were tested less, often being offered positions after just a one-day trial. Sanders was also passed over for expansive education opportunities with purveyors and other chefs. She notes that people often want to mentor those in whom they see themselves, and queer Black female chefs are a rarity in the fine dining realm.
The real turning point for Sanders came in 2014, when the streets of New York
were flooded with protestors shouting “I can’t breathe” in response to Eric Garner’s murder by an NYPD police officer. She remembers not being able to hear the protests from inside the high-end restaurant where she worked, as patrons spent the equivalent of a month’s rent on bottles of wine, blissfully unaware of the chaos ensuing outside. It was then that she began to question why she was filtering all of her energy into an exclusive industry that, by its very nature, left out so many.
Soon, she began to turn her attention to learning all she could about food justice and social equity, diving into various projects that sought not only to feed
but also empower marginalized communities and foster lasting change. In 2022, Sanders was awarded a James Beard Foundation Leadership Award for her work with Drive Change, an organization dedicated to creating employment pathways in the culinary industry for formerly incarcerated youth. Her lengthy— and impressive — resume reflects the size of her heart, illustrating a journey through food that is marked by a deep commitment to nourishing both the bodies and souls of those she proudly serves.
In 2024 alone, Sanders’ work continued to transcend the traditional kitchen and engage communities through her participation as a speaker and/or chef at both intimate gatherings and large-scale events, most often benefiting nonprofit organizations near and dear to her heart.
In September, she served as one of three featured chefs at the IndigeHub Dinner on the Navajo Nation in Window Rock, Arizona. A celebration of Indigenous traditions, the event highlighted a commitment to sustainable food practices and lasting partnerships to promote food sovereignty in Indigenous communities. “The farmers on the reservation were nothing short of extraordinary — brilliant, generous, and deeply connected to the land,” she notes.
“They welcomed us to their farm, where we harvested the ingredients that would eventually make their way into the dinner. After a full day of preparation, we served
a stunning four-course meal to about 30 Indigenous community members, including activists, farmers, and elders.”
She continues, “What made this dinner stand out was the opportunity to reverse the usual narrative. Typically, when Indigenous people are part of a dining experience, they are educating others about their traditions and advocating for the rights and practices that have been stolen from them. This time, we had the honor of serving them while they celebrated. It was a moment of rest and joy, and being able to nurture that space felt like a privilege I’ll carry with me forever.”
In addition to lending her culinary talents to a myriad of events around the country, Sanders also serves as a consultant to various organizations that strive to uplift vulnerable populations. Her dedication extends to organizations like God’s Love We Deliver, where she serves on the culinary council and contributes to the mission of serving meals to house-bound individuals with debilitating illnesses through fundraising, volunteering, and raising awareness.
Her recent work with Harlem Children’s Zone has allowed her to hone her skills as a consultant while opening her eyes to new challenges. “Coming from a background rooted in independent restaurants, stepping into school systems that serve anywhere from 1,200 to 2,500 kids daily has been both humbling and challenging,” she says. “These programs are responsible for delivering breakfast and lunch to hundreds, sometimes thousands of students each day — a scale I hadn’t worked with before.”
Here, Sanders notes that she trains school chefs not only to refine their skills but also to recognize the value of their contributions and foster a sense of pride in their work. “It’s amazing to see the shift when a team starts to recognize that their work nourished entire communities and their efforts truly matter.” Sanders’ commitment to community also extends to her role on the Black Farmer Fund Investment Committee, comprised of farming and food business community members from the organization’s previous pilot programs, as well as new members representing states across the Northeast.
Together, the committee is working to reimagine generational wealth within Black food systems, and Sanders finds inspiration and invaluable education in the intergenerational connections and shared knowledge within this space.
“The Black Farmer Fund is a testament to the power of community-driven solutions and the brilliance of those working to create lasting change,” she says. For Sanders, lasting change is woven into the ethos of sustainability. “When I think about sustainability, I realize that it’s not enough to simply maintain the status quo. True sustainability must evolve into something deeper — thoughtfulness within a regenerative ecosystem. It’s about creating systems that don’t just sustain, but actively replenish, reinvest, and regenerate within our communities,” she shares. “For me, sustainability isn’t just about environmental practices — it’s about ensuring that future generations have something meaningful to inherit: pride, legacy, and the tools to thrive. Resiliency and ingenuity have always been at the core of Black American survival and success.”
Looking ahead, Sanders is embarking on exciting new projects. Her upcoming traveling pop-up series, Church & Liquor, will explore Black American heritage, joy, and cultural resilience. Inspired by a customer who compared Sanders’ recent sold-out pop- up dinner to “going to church,” the series promises to be a celebration of nourishment an community. She is also gearing up for the 3rd Annual Queers at Beards event during James Beard weekend in June, and plans to continue her work with charter school culinary teams, with a focus on team building and management coaching. For more information, visit www.chefmavisjay.com.