BY PAM DELANY
Photography by Jill Richards
During the holidays, our feasts are often centered around a predictable roast or turkey surrounded by a bevy of familiar accompaniments — which can often steal the show. The most memorable of meals are often recounted by guests reminiscing over their second — or third — helping of their favorite side dish. And these dishes are often defined by the creativity and brilliance found in the produce that fills the table.
Few understand that better than Chef Charleen Badman, the James Beard Award-winning “Veggie Whisperer” who celebrates the bounty of Arizona’s farms and the beauty of local produce. At her Scottsdale restaurant, FnB, she has built a loyal following by showing diners how exciting vegetables can be when treated with the same care and imagination usually reserved for fine cuts of meat. Her menus shift constantly with the season and showcase ingredients from farmers she has worked with for years.
For Badman, plant-forward cooking is not about eliminating meat but about shifting the focus. A meal may include a pork chop or roast, but the true excitement comes from what is beside it: butternut squash, persimmon relish, or fennel grown by a farmer she knows by name.
Her connection to vegetables runs deep. She grew up in Tucson, where holiday meals often spilled outdoors into the sunshine and the flavors of the Southwest left a lasting impression. Corn, beans, and citrus still remind her of those early tables set under desert skies. Those roots shaped the chef she would become, one who sees produce not as garnish but as the main story.
Badman’s cooking is guided by the shifting seasons of the desert. While much of the country winds down for winter, Arizona’s late-year harvest brims with contrasts. Summer squash, cucumbers, and eggplant linger into November, even as beets, greens, and carrots begin to appear. This overlap, she explains, creates an opportunity to build holiday menus that feel both abundant and fresh — and rich in color, texture, and flavor.
Her philosophy begins with satisfaction. Side dishes should not play second fiddle. They should stand confidently on their own. One of her favorite examples is delicata squash, with its edible skin, roasted until caramelized, enhanced with an array of textures and flavors. She might stuff the squash with goat cheese, toasted pecans, and rosemary, add a final drizzle of honey for sweetness, and sprinkle breadcrumbs for crunch. The result is a dish that looks as celebratory as it tastes, simple enough for home cooks yet elegant enough for the center of a holiday table.
Badman enjoys layering flavors that surprise. Vinegars and pomegranate seeds lend brightness, while dried fruits or a touch of honey bring balance. She often reminds cooks that texture is as important as taste. A little crunch from kohlrabi, celery, or apples keeps a dish satisfying.
“Part of getting full is not about the amount you are eating,” she says. “It is about what you are eating.”
Her holiday gatherings reflect that same abundance and creativity. Friends and colleagues contribute dishes that tell stories: tamales that honor family traditions, macaroni and cheese inspired by childhood comfort, and roasted corn from a farm with a harvest timed perfectly for Thanksgiving. The result is a table filled with heritage and flavor.
That sense of connection between food, people, and place also drives Badman’s nonprofit work. Through the Blue Watermelon Project, she partners with chefs and educators to bring gardening and cooking into Arizona classrooms ranging from kindergarten to high school. About fifty schools now participate, each growing seasonal crops and learning to turn them into simple, five-ingredient recipes. She loves watching children discover where their food comes from.
“You can start [teaching] that young,” she says. “It did not come from a grocery store. It came out of the ground.”
For Badman, teaching children to appreciate food is as vital as feeding adults in her restaurant because it builds gratitude for the land that sustains them.
For anyone hoping to bring more plants to their holiday table, she offers reassuring advice. Start with what excites you. Choose one standout vegetable and build around it. Plan ahead in stages so the cooking feels joyful, not exhausting. And do not overlook the presentation. Fresh herbs and pomegranate seeds can make a dish as beautiful as it is delicious.
“People eat with their eyes,” she says.
Even classic comfort foods can evolve with a bit of imagination. Her green bean casserole, for example, replaces canned soup with chanterelle mushrooms and adds a handful of nuts for texture. It is a respectful nod to tradition that feels modern and fresh.
In the end, Badman’s message is simple. A plant-forward holiday is not about what is missing from the table. It is about everything that is gained when vegetables take the lead. It is about flavor, color, and gratitude for farmers, for the season, and for the shared joy of eating something grown close to home.
“You are not going hungry,” she says. “You are celebrating everything that is in season.”
